Basti’s language has exploded. He is charging around Rojilio and Luisa’s farm shouting “Pat-da-chicken“, “Apple-off-da-tree“, “More-Mora’s” (blackberries).
Their two boys Benjamin and Martin have been taking us on adventures across their land, down the river, and blackberry picking.
The Rios family live in a lush valley surrounded by volcanoes. Rojillio comes from a Mapuche family and members of his large extended family are continually dropping by. When something needs to be borrowed it’s only ever a short walk away. Even church (which we were invited to attend and happily accepted) was a short walk down the dirt road.
We have never met kids so content and at one with their surroundings. The boys play many invented games with the chickens or with piles of sand next to the river. When they need a snack they shake an apple tree. They also help their parents tremendously, working hard and holding a lot of responsibility looking after the farm animals. Great kids!
We didn’t plan to be here. It just so happened that we were driving along with no plans, and casually asked at the Curarrehue tourism office where we might be able to camp. Rojilio’s farm was one of the options.
And here we are. Patting chickens, charging around the farm, singing Spanish Sunday School songs, visiting the awesome Walung Markets, relaxing in thermal pools, and eating asados. There is always a haven to be found.
Thanks to the Rios family for an awesome stay! And thanks to Basti the Rios family now know some pretty sweet Spanglish phrases!
I have a rock rolling around the interior of one boot. In the other boot I have a sticky sock, a big patch of stick right in the arch of my foot. I have no idea why it’s sticky and to be honest I don’t even want to guess. There has been no time to attend to either problem so I’ve accepted these two uncomfortable feelings as my friends for the moment. We have been on a bus since the early hours of the morning crossing the Andes mountains with jaw droppingly beautiful views, though holding Sebastian during this trip was sort of like holding a bag full of live octopuses, so the glimpses I caught, I made sure I fully appreciated. Now we find ourselves out of the bus and lined up for the second time, having been stamped out of Argentina, and now to be stamped into Chile. Our backdrop is stunning Volcan Lanin. Sebastian is pulling at my pants wanting to “go away” while we catch all our baggage out of the Chilean Xray machine.
I’m hopeful we’ll find in Chile what we enjoyed most in Argentina – family friendly campgrounds where we get to enjoy the company of local holiday makers and delight in stunning scenery.
It was all part of the planning. “Where are the families?” “How can we avoid being on the gringo trail?” “How can we maximise our Spanish speaking?” “Everything around the Bariloche area sounds good in the guide books – how can we find the best spots for our little family?” All of this we brainstormed on a large piece of paper while planning our trip. And a theory formed – if we pack our tent and spend as much time as possible in campgrounds instead of hostels/hotels (which our kids don’t like anyway!) we will hopefully be living with the locals.
And our theory worked!
As luck would have it our second campground “Traful Lauquin” in Villa Traful turned out to be the most family friendly campground in the whole of Patagonia! We spoke so much Spanish both Michael and I started thinking in it and Amaya and Sebastian had plenty of kids to play with. The campground was divided into little pods with communal washtubs for collecting water and washing dishes. Each pod also had communal parrillas (fire places). This was awesome because it created a little community where you continually cross paths with the same campers during your day. We could ask (without being nosey) “what are you cooking for dinner?” and benefit from a true cultural exchange.
We stayed for so long that we got to know some locals too. Marienella invited us to her bread and croissant factory. She taught herself how to bake when the closest volcano erupted 8 years ago, trapping the whole of Villa Traful so they were unable to get supplies. Now she provides many hotels far and wide frozen croissants that they can quickly cook for breakfast. She is also the chef at the “Provedoria“, our campgrounds shop/bakery/restaurant.
During our stay in Villa Traful we gathered recommendations to further family friendly campgrounds and ended up in a stunning place called Quila Quina.
And so here we are. Crossing the border hoping for more of the same. Smiling about the theory that worked. This trip held many unknowns for us so we are so so happy to have spent so much time with wonderful Argentinean families. I dump my backpack back in the bus and finally allow Sebastian to “go away” by dragging me into the carpark. Here we try to dance our sillies out so the next section of the bus trip might be a little less octopus like. I also get rid of the rock in my boot. But the sticky patch remains.
Yesterday we crossed a busy border from Argentina back into Chile. We are staying in a small Malpuche town called Curarrehue (try pronouncing that!) and I am writing this after having relaxed in thermal baths all morning.
We have spent the last 5 weeks in Argentina and are just as enchanted with it now as we were the first time we visited! These are the reasons why:
1. Astounding natural beauty
Pictures do not do justice to the area of Northern Patagonia. We have spent the majority of our time camping next to pristine lakes, surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks. Amaya and Sebastian have thrived in this magical natural environment – it is beyond words!
The people are the other natural resource that places Argentina high on our most favourite places in the world! They are open, warm, sharing and energetic. They speak a colloquial, informal style of Spanish which we were able to adapt to quickly. The word “che” is inserted a a filler into most sentences and is where the revolutionary Ernesto “Che” Guevara derived his nick name.
3. Food and Wine
If you are vegetarian Argentina may not be the place for you. They eat more meat per capita then any other country in the world. 400 grams per person was what a butcher told me I needed for an evenings cook up!
The meat is slow cooked over a parilla (open grill). To be able to cook the perfect asado (meat feast) is the source of great (mostly male) pride.
Around 10pm each night (they eat dinner late) there was a lovely aroma of roasted meat wafting over the campground.
This meat heavy meal is always washed down with a hearty Malbec wine which is grown on the dry slopes of the Andes Mountains.
Not the Australian colloquialism for friend, but a herbal tea that is consumed in large enough quantities to put the English to shame. It is pronounced Mah-teh and is prepared by filling a small gourd with yerba mate (the tea leaves) and then pouring near-boiling water on top. The mate is then slurped up through a metal straw with a filter on the end that is submerged.
The part I love about slurping mate is the social cohesiveness of the ritual. People stand in small groups and pass a communal gourd around. It is how I imagine the peace pipe was for American Indians. It unites, and provides an egalitarian basis for meaningful conversation.
Bruce and Joanie are wonderful people who do so much good in the world. They are directors of an NGO called Meal a Day, active members of their church community and support many individuals around the world.
We first met them about 10 years ago and have become better people for it.
The last time we saw them was in Yosemite National Park. Sebastian was only 8 weeks old and I remember Bruce posing the question (as he always does), “where do you reckon we will meet up next?” We could never have predicted Argentina, just as we couldn’t have predicted our 4 month traverse of South America that we enjoyed together back in 2008, or meeting up in India or visiting aid projects in Central America.
We love the fact that our friendship bridges the generation gap and their presence was certainly an enriching experience for our children.
We rented an apartment in Bariloche, Argentina, and spent a marvellous week exploring the breathtaking beauty of the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. We played cards, climbed mountains, swam in ice cold water, had snow ball fights, ate large hunks of tender beef and too much flan.
All of this provided an excellent backdrop for some inspiring conversations that will hopefully keep us going until we meet up in our next yet-to-be-determined spot.
The last 4 days have been magical. We have been camping on the edge of a lake near a small town called Villa La Angostura. We are surrounded by gigantic mountains, some of which are volcanoes that occasionally spew ash into the air which creates a surreal misty effect. The lake is fresh and cold, and is fed by icy glacial streams. We are camped in a pine forest and have a cosy fireplace next to our small tent. It is perfect for us.
Amaya and Sebastian are loving it. Amaya’s imagination is limitless and she spends hours by the lake in rapidly evolving, fantastical worlds. Sebastian throws rock after rock into the water, he wades through streams, collects wood for the fire, sits importantly on his log and from time to time is permitted into his big sister’s imaginary world.
Both Shoshanna and I are continually stunned with the beauty of this place and feel immensely happy and at peace to be here.
The last time we were in Santiago was in 2008. Pre-kids, if there ever was such a time… We didn’t really enjoy it. It is a big, dry, dust-bowl of a city, surrounded by monstrous mountains that can only be glimpsed through the smog or heat haze or whatever it is.
The last 7 days have been quite the opposite. Santiago is still big and smoggy and noisy but our experiences were only positive! This is despite crazy jet lag and two needy children.
I think it is actually because of the kids. They have forced us to slow down and not try and wring everything we can out of each day. It doesn’t matter if we repeat activities – we have been to the zoo twice! And we would never have even gone to the zoo or the fantastical “parque de la infancia” (childhood park) or eaten giant fairy floss or multiple ice creams or played in street fountains or had random strangers snapping photos of our kids.
Yes travelling with kids means we can’t lazily sip coffee on the sidewalk or join the New Years Eve festivities or chug back the customary litre bottles of beer in seedy and not so seedy bars, but maybe real joy is found elsewhere.
We are on the road again. Sadly not on bikes, but hopefully just as adventurous. We are travelling through southern Argentina and Chile in a region called the lakes district. It is a magical place on the edge of Patagonia with snow capped conical volcanoes, pristine lakes, racks of lamb slow-cooked over open fires that can be washed down with bottles of Malbec.
We plan to camp, hike and climb, speak oodles of Spanish and have a wonderful family holiday.
So far we have been in Santiago, Chile for about 24 hrs, and though everyone is struggling with devastating jet lag, we have still managed to see a few things…
Almost 2 years ago we moved to Newcastle, Australia with the hope of living a local, cycle friendly, beachside lifestyle. During our ride across Europe we discussed for hours on end what was most important to us in a place to live (In fact we blogged about it at one point – Why the Dutch Have it Right). One of the things we loved about Berlin was how all our activities were super accessible and how transport was predominately by bike. This was a far cry from what we experienced while living in car-based Sydney. Jeff Speck in his TED talk “The walkable city” had very convincing arguments on why removing/reducing a reliance on cars increases people’s quality of life. Newcastle seemed to tick all the boxes, so we left Sydney in our dust and here we are.
We love it!
Our inner city suburb is filled with families, has a leafy centrally located park, oodles of cafes and restaurants, many services, and a large variety of fun activities. We are so grateful to be connected to such a vibrant community. It is also an easy 2.5km cycle to a stunning world class beach that still leaves me in awe and slight disbelief that I am actually cycling HOME and not to a campground or holiday house.
To make matters better we have invested in an awesome machine. ‘The Babboe’, a dutch marvel, purchased from the charming Bernie from Metro Cycles.
One unexpected benefit of travelling in ‘Babboe style’ is that it is a great conversation starter! No matter the social standing, the general consensus is that our bike is tops. These little daily encounters make me feel more a part of the local community. It is, as one friend put it, “a lifestyle of awesomeness.” Without a doubt some of the happiest moments in my day are when the kids and I are cruising around talking about what we see or simply sitting silently enjoying the peaceful moment and watching the world glide by.
Merewether Baths – best parking spot ever!
And so at this stage our plan is to sink further into the wonderful lifestyle that Newcastle can provide, and satisfy our nomadic yearnings by planning shorter trips. Maybe that will work for us for a while. We’ll see. Either way, whether this becomes our permanent home or not, I’m certainly glad to be here.
In the last month or so of riding in Germany Shoshanna was complaining about being unusually tired. I just put it down to the fact that we were cycling 60km a day and parenting a temperamental toddler. But no! She was pregnant!
Sebastian Lior was born on the 1st of May. All are healthy and well and feeling very blessed.
We haven’t managed to put him on a bike yet but we are working on it. Any suggestions are welcome!
We were attempting the tricky task of taking a passport photo (we are off to San Fran in June) and Amaya wanted to help…